Purchases for rebuild of #139

Im starting to receive all the parts I ordered to start actually putting #139 back together:

Summit Racing: $136

• $25 russel -6 fuel filter
• $30 prothane Tbelt side motor mount insert (had the other 3 laying around)
• $52 15ft of -6 Aeroquip sockettless fuel line
• $29 worth of -6 hose ends and fittings for fuel lines

My oem feed line was all mangled directly under the original fuel filter (that needed to be replaced for sure). Im planning to cut the oem line down by the steering rack and use a -6 tube nut & flare the stock line. Then run -6 sockettless hose to the aftermarket filter, to the rail, and to an Aeromotive fpr I kept from a previous parts car.

EnergySuspensionParts.com: $135 set of ES poly suspension bushings

JayRacing.com: $125 alternator relocation kit (oem alt, will fix alt death and ic pipe fitment)

Ebay: $4 skateboard bearings for the shifter cable/trans connection.

Rock Auto: $60

• $17 steering rack boots
• $16 front ball joints
• $13 outer tie rod ends
• $14 inner tie rod ends

Hopefully all these things show up by the end of this week so the assembly can really kick into high gear.

Lots of work these last few weeks.

Well, the last few weeks saw a lot of changes to #931:


I found some time to install some of the parts that I had saved from a 93 AWD DSM I parted out.
4 bolt rear diff, axles, cups installed.
5 lug hubs installed
ABS deleted, 25+lb motor in the trash. I used a dsm brake lines and proportioning valve.
slotted brake rotors F&R
16"x7" wheels with Bridgestone potenza 205/55/16's. The tires are nearly new.

The "holy grail" of GVR4 parts was found online, $50: a 344 front engine mount bracket that is the correct one. The car came with a 347 DSM front engine mount bracket that screws up the engine alignment and I wasn't able to get all the engine mounts bolted up. Now all is good and all the mounts line up just right.

Currently the car is up on jackstands while I finish up some loose ends. The car came with a new set of parking brake cables, and I have run into two new issues while installing them:

#1 the vibration the car has had forever was likely the driveshaft. A previous owner of the car put the driveshaft on without the correct bushings on the carrier bearings. I'm sure I have a couple good sets from previous partouts, so it's an easy fix.

#2 while pulling the center console to get to the parking brake lever, I ran into a big rats nest of wiring for the gauges, profec B, radio, ect. I'm planning to change to a different stereo and move the gauges, so now is as good a time as any while the console is out. Funny how working on one project turns into working on 3 projects.


I purchased some new parts that are "in process" of installing:
GM 3bar MAP and air temp sensors for speed density conversion. ~$100
Innovate LC-1 wideband o2 sensor & digital gauge $230
Moates.net Ostrich Eprom emulator. (this works as a reflashable chip for the ecu) $175
3" ss U bend & K&N filter to build a simple intake pipe. ~$65
DS-Map speed density conversion/tuning software and MMSD datalogger software. $FREE

Im planing to remove the AFC, 2G maf, dejon intake, 2G filter, Keydiver Chip, EGT and oil pressure gauges. Those items will go up for sale to cover some of the cost of the wideband and speed density parts.

Also need to pick up some -6 fittings and a fuel rail adapter so I can instal the aeromotive FPR I have around as well.

Clutch & Tranny installed

Well, I finally have the clutch and transmission back in the car. I made some efforts on cleaning up clutter, repainted the Ic pipes, added an oil catch can, and cleaned up the firewall a bit.

New parts installed:
2G OEM clutch disk
Clutch fork & pivot ball (shimmed with 8mm flat washer)
OEM throw out bearing and retaining clip
4qt of BG Syncroshift gear oil
Valve cover gasket and CAS oring
turbo oil drain line gasket



The original battery was huge and right in the way of getting the hood to close properly. I picked up a lawnmower battery that is 350CA and some ring terminal wires. The battery fits perfectly between the frame rail and fuel lines on the steering rack subframe where the charcoal canister once resided. Made a simple hold down bracket. Lost & lowered a few pounds of weight and got the battery tucked out of the way for future work/mods. Much better IMHO than a trunk mount batter: lighter, no NHRA issues, starts the car fine even in sub zero temps, and cost a whopping $21.67 at walmart.


The original hood on the car was wasted with dings and the clearcoat had totally failed and flaked off. Typical for green GVR4's it seems. I was able to pick up a decent condition green hood from a local club member.

Cleanup Work

Im cleaning up the engine bay while waiting to get my center diff back from Bean @ Turbotrix who is welding it solid.  The mat on the firewall was removed as well as a bunch of brackets and bolts that weren't doing anything.  The intake manifold brake, AC compressor bracket, washer bottle are all gone.  Removing the pvc valve to run a 2 line catch can.  Im planing to move the battery to the steering rack subframe.  I'm going through many cans of cleaner and shop rags cleaning up oil & dirt all over the place.  Im fixing some oil leaks as well: New valve cover gaskets, turbo oil return line gaskets, and cas oring,

The car has really no rust at all on the chassis or body.  I'm really happy with the purchase, and feel a bit better about doing a significant amount of work on the car.  I'v heard through the grapevine that this was a virgina car for most of it's life, explaining the lack of rust.   That nasty 3bolt rear is one of the first things I intend to upgrade..


All Wheel Steering lines were removed.  There was some power steering fluid leaking around the rack, so a swap to a 1g rack may be in the future.

TOB > ACT Clutch Disk

I pulled the trans out on saturday night to find this:

Seems the ACT street disk had some wear and the rivets holding the spring hub together pulled out of the main disk plate. The Throwout bearing was in normal shape, as was the clutch fork.

So I ordered a new 2G OEM Mitsubishi clutch disk from JNZ Tuning today, along with a bunch of gaskets and orings to fix all the minor oil leaks on the engine. Total: $101 shipped. The parts should be here this friday. A new ACT Street Disk was $149 alone, compared to $67 for the OEM Disk, and frankly, I trust the stock disk more. The 2600lb pressure plate adds plenty of torque capacity, so I don't think I will have any issues even on race tires and ~450whp.

While the trans was out, I found a bunch of things that needed attention:
missing subframe gusset.
missing trans to engine bolts.
missing axle jackshaft to engine bolts.
a broken vacuum line.
radiator fan plastic mounts broke, needs brackets made to attach it right.

So while the trans is out, Im going to put some effort into cleaning up the engine bay:
Removed: AC compressor bracket, Intake manifold brace
intend to move the battery down to the steering subframe where the charcoal canister used to be.
Clean up some iffy wiring for the rad fans.

Week 2: TOB Failure

Seems the throwout bearing failed today. The previous owner Rich had let me know it has been making noise "forever" and included a new bearing, clutch fork & pivot ball, an some BG gear oil with the car. Happened on he way to work, and I was able to drive the car home without issue minus a working clutch. (RPM matching gearshifts). There was still heavy pedal pressure so the fork didn't snap off nor do I think it's a hydraulic issue. But will see when the trans is out.

The car also has a bad grinding/vibrating in the back. Originally It thought it was a wheel bearing, along with that diagnosis from some respected DSM buddies who had previously worked on the car. But the vibration is really only there when the engine is pushing the car, not when coasting. That leads me to lean to a driveshaft U joint or a rear diff bearing.

So, this weekend's job is
A. Pull the tranny and replace the failed clutch parts
B. Replace the rear wheel bearings since I have the parts here.
C. Replace the parking brake cables.
D. While the trans is out, do some engine bay cleaning, "dead weight" removal, and planning for new IC pipe routing & battery location.

($65 Rock auto for the 4 rear wheel bearings w/ shipping)
TOB, Fork, Pivot Ball, Gear oil, and Parking brake cables were included with the car from Rich C. Thanks Man!

Front brakes and axles

Front brakes and axle.
$36 cut front rotors
$56 pass front axle
One $20 CV boot kit used for grease/clamp on drivers outer boot.

Oil Changed mobil one 5-20 & mitsu oil filter

Major grease mess cleaned on hubs/brakes/suspension.