Purchases for rebuild of #139

Im starting to receive all the parts I ordered to start actually putting #139 back together:

Summit Racing: $136

• $25 russel -6 fuel filter
• $30 prothane Tbelt side motor mount insert (had the other 3 laying around)
• $52 15ft of -6 Aeroquip sockettless fuel line
• $29 worth of -6 hose ends and fittings for fuel lines

My oem feed line was all mangled directly under the original fuel filter (that needed to be replaced for sure). Im planning to cut the oem line down by the steering rack and use a -6 tube nut & flare the stock line. Then run -6 sockettless hose to the aftermarket filter, to the rail, and to an Aeromotive fpr I kept from a previous parts car.

EnergySuspensionParts.com: $135 set of ES poly suspension bushings

JayRacing.com: $125 alternator relocation kit (oem alt, will fix alt death and ic pipe fitment)

Ebay: $4 skateboard bearings for the shifter cable/trans connection.

Rock Auto: $60

• $17 steering rack boots
• $16 front ball joints
• $13 outer tie rod ends
• $14 inner tie rod ends

Hopefully all these things show up by the end of this week so the assembly can really kick into high gear.

More POR

Shortblock after degreasing:

Misc chassis/brake parts after cleaning

Shortblock with a coat of POR15

Misc chassis/brake parts after POR

Fuel tank after removing the shields, cleaning, and a coat of POR15

Making more mess.

Got some time to break things down today and clean up a bit. I had the whole rear subframe & rear assemblies from both GVR4s in the garage as well as the front suspension assembly from 139 to take apart. So they all got torn down, the good parts in one pile and the rusty junk went into my monster pile of scrap steel.

Then I had 4 big coffee cans of bolts and all the control arms, axles, diffs, one subframe and misc stuff to degrease and wash. That rear subframe from 931 was not really rusty, but holy crap it was disgusting from a leaky rear diff pinion seal.

So still getting parts cleaned and ready for another major POR painting. Now that the unibody is spotless clean underneith, everything that gets bolted to it must be the same: brand new or fresh cleaned.

I think when I'm done, this is going to end up to nice to daily drive or take out in the snow/salt.

POR-15 undercoating

I got the main portion of the underbody coated in Por 15 today, again, a suck nuts job brushing it on. It didn't help that the stuff gets sticky just about instantly as it was raining out and is a major workout to brush.

Still have to wash the wheel wells after removing the front ABS wires, plastic fender liners, front fender moldings, and fenders. I want to clean and POR15 the area of the unibody behind the fender that is typically the first to rot on Galants.

That's me in the corner.

Undercarriage cleaning - prep for coating

Today was NOT fun. I degreased and washed the entire underbody in prep for Por15 rust inhibitor paint. The degreaser I used seems to eat skin and turn the underbody coating into drippy slime. This was a suck ass job if there ever was one to do on a car. It's clean enough to lick now, all the black undercoating dries off clean and not sticky. On a good note, the floor of the garage is spotless now after being squeegied. The car has to dry tonight and I'm planning to go put a coat on tomorrow afternoon.

I found that my local Napa stocks just about all the Por15 products

$44 for a quart was cheaper than online anyway vs shipping.

Removal of the rest of #139's underside

No pics from today. 

Removed: fuel tank, fuel lines and rear brake hard lines, all the exhaust hangers, rear tow loops, and the rear bumper assembly.

DAMN the rear bumper was heavy:

• 39.5lb on my shipping scale for the rear support (went to the scrap steel pile behind the garage)
  
• 6lb for the pair of tow loops, also in the scrap
  
• 8lb of rear bumper foam! wtf that's heavier than it looks.
  
• 3.5lb exhaust heat shield
  

All that stuff isn't going back on for a nice 57lb of weight loss. Brackets to hold up the rear bumper cover shouldn't weight more than 3 or 4lb.

Transition from 931 to 139

Tuesday I was able to finish up removing all the parts needed from #931 and get it outside off the lift. Here's pretty much everything needed to reassemble #139 into a running car, other than a good T3T4 turbo:

Then I rolled 139 onto the lift and started removing everything on the underside: driveshaft, rear subframe and diff/axles, heat shield, parking cables, steering rack subframe, rack, control arms, shocks, brakes, hubs. That put me to here:  

I still need to pull the fuel tank, rear brake lines, -8 fuel line, and the rear bumper support. Then I want to go at all the little rust spots with a wire wheel, wash the bottom, and go at it with a new layer of undercoating or paint.  

Then need to start getting the rear subframe cleaned and painted, then reinstalled with the 4bolt diff. Debating getting a rebuilt dsm steering rack now while it's apart since that is such a pita to change a year down the road. Also have to get going on the motor work and a new turbo before I can do much on the front end. But anyway, progress is happening. Im hoping to have the car together and on the road by the end of June.

Parting out #931: drivetrain removal

Well, this is what 931 looks like as of today: 

Pulled the complete engine/trans/suspension/steering in one shot out the bottom. Im intending to install it this way into 139 maybe next week after doing some work on the engine (BSE, Tbelt, Cams,head rebuild, non crunched oil pan, maybe aluminum flywheel)

This is all the bolts required to remove it in this manor. Took from 2pm till 5pm. pretty fast from running car to engine on the floor.

Pic of the turbo setup that went on last weekend.

Still need to snag the fuel tank, lines, and a bunch of engine compartment items from #931 before getting it off the lift.

Engine bay paint

The seam of the paint on the fender attachment area. The line goes right down the 90* corner. That spot seemed like the least noticable place and it was easy to tape. really, the best option would have been to take the fenders off, but this isn't too bad.

The subframes are still groddy and rusty, Im going to swap those with #931 next weekend with the entire drivetrain, engine wiring harness, fuel system, brakes, suspension, and all 931's modifications.

Engine bay cleaning and prep for paint

Today's progress: After I gutted the engine bay. Removed the engine wiring harness, throttle and shifter cables, clutch master, brake master, brake booster, detached most of the chassis wiring harness, wiper motor, and bunch of misc other crap. That got me to here:





Then a generous soaking of simple green, a box of brillo dish pads, and a long ass time of bending over:





So, while it came out pretty clean, I still need to sand some rust in a few spots. Majorly under the oem battery spot, that's going to need some wire wheel work. wonder if I can get close enough to a match of the stock green or just go black engine bay?

Underside inspection of 139 on the lift

I got #139 into the garage today and up on the lift to check out the situation. Emptied the interior of misc parts and started organizing. The interior is pretty much together other than rear seats, radio, and ecu. Undercarriage has a bit more rusty stuff than #931, mostly on the subframes and suspension members. Steering rack is leaking bad and looks beat.

So my plan now is to swap even more out of 931 Thinking of removing the complete engine/trans/xcase and all of the front subframes, steering rack, control arms, hubs, axles in one big monster unit. Most of those parts are in better or non rusty condition on 931.

• disconnect the engine wiring, radiator & heater hoses, shifter cables, clutch slave, side engine mounts, steering shaft, strut tops, wheels, brake lines all from the top. 
  
• lower the car on the lift until the subframes are on a rolling dolly. 
• unbolt the subframes from the unibody
• lift the unibody up. 
  
• roll the whole front end away. 
  
• swap cars on the lift and set the new car down onto the complete front end assembly and bolt it up

Tentativly Im thinking of doing the drivetrain swap around the weekend of May 23. I think I can get everything out of 931 and have 139 atleast rolling in one weekend. The the next week I should be able to button it up and have the car running.

Anyway, here's some pics from tonight:

 Rust is really not too bad, mostly around brackets and bolts.

Q: How much do I trust welded suspension that was done by the person who hacked that hood?

Wow. Clear plastic lens.

Headliner is absolutely mint. I'm floored by this as the one in 931 is all stained and groddy.

Dash is in great shape with no bubbling by the vents.

I haven't found any cracks or imperfections yet.

Trunk and rear seat area has been gone over with some sort of 

undercoating that is hard and sandpaper like. It looks decent and clean.

The guy I bought the car from did a good job with the trunk mounted battery and running the cables, but I think Im going to remove it and use the lawnmower size battery mounted to the steering rack subframe. (lighter and no NHRA issues with the cutoff)

Purchase of #139/1000

I picked up #139/1000 this last weekend. The car was previously Turbotommy's car from NJ, then it went to Maryland for some lawn ornament time. The body is really really nice, two single dings (rear pass door and under the pass tail light) and only a couple scratches. Interior is very very nice, but is currently full of parts.

The car is only a rolling chassis, needing an engine/trans, fuel parts, ecu, and all engine accessories. 86k miles on the chassis. My plan is to swap all the parts I need from the GVR4 Im currently driving (931/2000) once I get it cleaned up. Goal for this car is a solid 11 second pumpgas car and super clean exterior/interior. So anyway, for a first post, here's some pics as it sits. I don't think the car has been washed since it was parted out in like 2007.










It's pretty empty under the hood. Unfortunately, the wiring has been taken apart. so I'm going through it for sure before goes in. Might remove the harness and paint the engine bay while it's empty.





:banghead:Way to mangle a perfect hood to glue in vents. Looks to have been cut with a sawzall. Guess that's something else needed, another hood. I got a nice uncut white front bumper and white roof strips, so those need to be painted.