Purchases for rebuild of #139

Im starting to receive all the parts I ordered to start actually putting #139 back together:

Summit Racing: $136

• $25 russel -6 fuel filter
• $30 prothane Tbelt side motor mount insert (had the other 3 laying around)
• $52 15ft of -6 Aeroquip sockettless fuel line
• $29 worth of -6 hose ends and fittings for fuel lines

My oem feed line was all mangled directly under the original fuel filter (that needed to be replaced for sure). Im planning to cut the oem line down by the steering rack and use a -6 tube nut & flare the stock line. Then run -6 sockettless hose to the aftermarket filter, to the rail, and to an Aeromotive fpr I kept from a previous parts car.

EnergySuspensionParts.com: $135 set of ES poly suspension bushings

JayRacing.com: $125 alternator relocation kit (oem alt, will fix alt death and ic pipe fitment)

Ebay: $4 skateboard bearings for the shifter cable/trans connection.

Rock Auto: $60

• $17 steering rack boots
• $16 front ball joints
• $13 outer tie rod ends
• $14 inner tie rod ends

Hopefully all these things show up by the end of this week so the assembly can really kick into high gear.

More POR

Shortblock after degreasing:

Misc chassis/brake parts after cleaning

Shortblock with a coat of POR15

Misc chassis/brake parts after POR

Fuel tank after removing the shields, cleaning, and a coat of POR15

#139 Modification List

Engine:

• HKS 264 Intake & 272 Exhaust cams
• JM Fabrications intake manifold
• Ported cyl head
• ARP head studs
• Stock 6bolt shortblock
• Balance shafts deleted
• 1G DSM NT throttle body
• 90 DSM oil filter housing & aftermarket cooler

Exhaust:

• T3 tube header
• .63 AR T3 turbine housing
• 2.5" SS o2 housing
• Tial MSV 38mm external wastegate
• 3" turboback exhaust

Intake:

• 3" intake pipe with K&N filter
• T3T4 turbocharger (likely an old school 50trim/stg3)
• 2.5" custom polished aluminum IC pipes
• XS power 28"x12"x4" fmic core with flipped inlet endtank
• Tial bov (knockoff)

Fuel:

• 750cc FIC Injectors
• Denso Fuel pump
• Aeromotive FPR.
• Aftermarket fuel filter TBD
• -6 lines from filter to rail/afpr

Electronics:

• DSMap speed density software
• GM 3 bar map sensor and GM Air Temp sensor.
• Innovate LC-1 wideband o2 sensor w/ DB gauge.
• Eprom ECU w/ Ostrich eprom emulator
  
• AEM Tru Boost gauge/controller
• Datalogger cable / Palm M130 / MMSD "speed density logger"

Drivetrain:

• TRE Stage 2 tranny rebuild
  
• ACT2600 PP
  
• OEM DSM disk
  
• SS clutch line
• Welded center diff
  
• 4bolt DSM rear
• 5 lug DSM hubs

Suspension & Brakes:

• D2 coilovers
• ES poly bushings
• Prothane engine mounts
• Fresh stock brake pads
• Slotted brake rotors
• AWS removed
• ABS removed

Interior:

• Aftermarket steering wheel
• 91-94 DSM Shifter Assembly w/ leather boot
• 2G DSM shift knob
• 89 Galant glove box and dash pad

Exterior:

• 89 Taillights
• 89 Grill
• Prime 16x7" wheels
• Bridgestone Potenza 205/55/16 tires

JMF intake manifold

Picked up a JMFabrications intake manifold, I guess it is most similar to the current Race model. It has the internal pipe velocity stacks compared to the new model that has the radius machined into the plenum wall. Brent @ JMF says this was made circa June 2006.

I need to decide on refinishing it:

• Scuff and repaint (maybe POR)
• Strip and Polish (labor intensive and I suck at polishing)
• Have it powdercoated along with a matching valve cover. ($)

#139 Weight loss

Parts removed entirely:

• 39.5 rear bumper support
  
• 6 rear tow loops: pair
  
• 8 rear bumper foam
  
• 3.5 exhaust heat shield
  
• 29.5 front bumper support (prev cut for fmic install)
• 40lb-EST Complete A/C system
• 22lb ABS pump
• 10lb-EST 4 wheel steering
• 10lb -EST charcoal canister, intake brace, emmissions stuff
• 9lb power antenna
• 39lb spare tire/jack/tools/carpets

Total: 216.5lb removed

Parts modified/replaced that alter total weight:

• -2.25lb Cut cast drivers side engine mount bracket above PS pump
  
• -1.25lb cut bent end off drivers side engine mount
  
• -2.00lb complete T3T4 setup swapped from 16G setup
  
• +15lb larger FMIC core (xs power 28"x12"x4" core is 23lb)
• -5lb Aluminum intercooler pipes
• -4lb 89 Dash pad
• +15lb 16" wheels & tires
• -4lb JMF intake (10lb oem/6lb JMF)
• -8lb non cruise control throttle cable
• -15lb lawnmower battery
• -5lb plastic radiator fans

Total: ~ 16 loss from modifications

Total current weight loss: ~232lb

"To-Do" list of weight loss:

• manual seatbelts 20lb
• evo8 seats ~40lb
• coilover shocks save ~35lb
• carbon fiber hood ~30lb
• interior sound deadening ~10lb
• aluminum flywheel -15lb
• remove balance shafts 6.5lb
• manual rack & ps delete ~15lb

Total "to do" ~172lb loss

Misc weights for GVR4 parts:

• 32.5 Fuel tank w/ sending unit & pump
  
• 5 Full set of exhaust hangers
  
• 17.5lb Stock GVR4 15" wheel
• 18.75 Front shock & spring
• 10.5 rear shock & spring
• 10lb rear swaybar w/ links
• 8.5lb front swaybar w/ links

All weights listed in LB as measured on a mechanical shipping scale

Making more mess.

Got some time to break things down today and clean up a bit. I had the whole rear subframe & rear assemblies from both GVR4s in the garage as well as the front suspension assembly from 139 to take apart. So they all got torn down, the good parts in one pile and the rusty junk went into my monster pile of scrap steel.

Then I had 4 big coffee cans of bolts and all the control arms, axles, diffs, one subframe and misc stuff to degrease and wash. That rear subframe from 931 was not really rusty, but holy crap it was disgusting from a leaky rear diff pinion seal.

So still getting parts cleaned and ready for another major POR painting. Now that the unibody is spotless clean underneith, everything that gets bolted to it must be the same: brand new or fresh cleaned.

I think when I'm done, this is going to end up to nice to daily drive or take out in the snow/salt.

POR-15 undercoating

I got the main portion of the underbody coated in Por 15 today, again, a suck nuts job brushing it on. It didn't help that the stuff gets sticky just about instantly as it was raining out and is a major workout to brush.

Still have to wash the wheel wells after removing the front ABS wires, plastic fender liners, front fender moldings, and fenders. I want to clean and POR15 the area of the unibody behind the fender that is typically the first to rot on Galants.

That's me in the corner.