TOB > ACT Clutch Disk

I pulled the trans out on saturday night to find this:

Seems the ACT street disk had some wear and the rivets holding the spring hub together pulled out of the main disk plate. The Throwout bearing was in normal shape, as was the clutch fork.

So I ordered a new 2G OEM Mitsubishi clutch disk from JNZ Tuning today, along with a bunch of gaskets and orings to fix all the minor oil leaks on the engine. Total: $101 shipped. The parts should be here this friday. A new ACT Street Disk was $149 alone, compared to $67 for the OEM Disk, and frankly, I trust the stock disk more. The 2600lb pressure plate adds plenty of torque capacity, so I don't think I will have any issues even on race tires and ~450whp.

While the trans was out, I found a bunch of things that needed attention:
missing subframe gusset.
missing trans to engine bolts.
missing axle jackshaft to engine bolts.
a broken vacuum line.
radiator fan plastic mounts broke, needs brackets made to attach it right.

So while the trans is out, Im going to put some effort into cleaning up the engine bay:
Removed: AC compressor bracket, Intake manifold brace
intend to move the battery down to the steering subframe where the charcoal canister used to be.
Clean up some iffy wiring for the rad fans.

Week 2: TOB Failure

Seems the throwout bearing failed today. The previous owner Rich had let me know it has been making noise "forever" and included a new bearing, clutch fork & pivot ball, an some BG gear oil with the car. Happened on he way to work, and I was able to drive the car home without issue minus a working clutch. (RPM matching gearshifts). There was still heavy pedal pressure so the fork didn't snap off nor do I think it's a hydraulic issue. But will see when the trans is out.

The car also has a bad grinding/vibrating in the back. Originally It thought it was a wheel bearing, along with that diagnosis from some respected DSM buddies who had previously worked on the car. But the vibration is really only there when the engine is pushing the car, not when coasting. That leads me to lean to a driveshaft U joint or a rear diff bearing.

So, this weekend's job is
A. Pull the tranny and replace the failed clutch parts
B. Replace the rear wheel bearings since I have the parts here.
C. Replace the parking brake cables.
D. While the trans is out, do some engine bay cleaning, "dead weight" removal, and planning for new IC pipe routing & battery location.

($65 Rock auto for the 4 rear wheel bearings w/ shipping)
TOB, Fork, Pivot Ball, Gear oil, and Parking brake cables were included with the car from Rich C. Thanks Man!

Front brakes and axles

Front brakes and axle.
$36 cut front rotors
$56 pass front axle
One $20 CV boot kit used for grease/clamp on drivers outer boot.

Oil Changed mobil one 5-20 & mitsu oil filter

Major grease mess cleaned on hubs/brakes/suspension.

Some pictures from the day I bought the car: